The inner thoughts of ‘Queen’ Molly, ruler of the world’s wild, wild waves

Molly Picklum’s fearless approach to surfing earth’s wildest waves, was rewarded last September when she was crowned the World Surf League’s female world champion after a dominant season that’s destined to be remembered for both its brilliance and consistency.

Her coronation at Fiji’s renowned Cloudbreak, allowed the 22-year-old, who grew up on the NSW Central Coast, to fulfill her childhood dream of joining the pantheon of Australian champions – her idols – Stephanie Gilmore, Layne Beachley, Sally Fitzgibbons and Tyler Wright on the dais.

Picklum’s victory will also be remembered for her fighting qualities. Testimony to her ability to duke it out, Picklum roared back from losing the first heat to America’s Caroline Marks to taking out the best-of-three final 2-1. She didn’t hide her emotions as she savoured a sweet victory.

“I cannot believe it,” an emotional Picklum said after her triumph. “I didn’t make it easy for myself. I was pretty excited and made it hard, but I locked in and did what I’ve done all year.”

However, the New South Wales Institute of Sport (NSWIS) scholarship holder’s great ride is said to be only beginning with many predicting a career that will celebrate other glories. Indeed, those close to Picklum say they are proud she’s equally committed to being the best surfer she can possibly be and becoming the best version of herself.

This extraordinary talent – who is at home skimming over razor sharp reefs just inches beneath the water’s surface in Tahiti or cutting through barrelling waves with the poise and grace of a ballerina – took time out during a visit to NSWIS to share her inner thoughts on everything from being world champ to what traits she looks for in members of her Circle of Trust.

The world title is a journey

“The thing I realise now, being a world champion, is it’s all about the pursuit – not the end goal. Obviously, it’s great and all good things come from it, but I’ve learned that I really loved the process of getting to the pinnacle and being a champion.”

What the crown represents

“Being a professional athlete is so many sacrifices, pushing over a bit of adversity and always saying ‘yes’ to challenges, and pushing through any challenges. It’s all a balance – right? You don’t want to overdo it and push through everything, but you definitely work hard and it’s a lot of mind-over-matter and that’s what creates a champion. You just hope if you overcome enough challenges . . . push through . . . you’ll eventually get the victory.”

Predator to prey

“It’s definitely a different mindset being the hunted versus hunting the No.1. I thrive hunting someone ahead of me, but it was something I wanted to work on this year. But [as the World No.1 for most of the year] I was able to win, and I had a lot of success being the hunted. It was definitely something I had to learn – just focussing on yourself and just keep pushing. A lot of the female surfers are good, and I know they’re coming for me. It’s just a different motivation.”

Defying odds

“I was sidelined for 6-8 weeks, and it was funny because I hurt myself just a week or two into our off-season. I didn’t know how bad it was, I was in a barrel and hurt my foot. I came straight to NSWIS because I wanted to get that ball rolling; came in to see Sean Cooney [NSWIS sports physiotherapist] and Spencer Goggin [NSWIS strength & conditioning coach] and was fortunate enough to get professionals looking at me straight away. From there it was just a process of building back up. I wasn’t thinking of the season starting because  I was just focussed on day-to-day progress. And then sure enough, the season was nearing, and I was like ‘ooh, my foot’s not like 100 percent yet.’ It’s cool, you choose people to be on your team, and you have people around you that you can have trust in. I trusted [I’d] be ready if they [said] I’m ready.”

What qualities enters the Circle of Trust

“No specific traits, but I definitely love positive and open minded people. Surfing, it’s like a game of life in you can’t predict it because there’s so many unpredictables. I really value those who are open minded, adaptable and ready to move with me wherever I am in the world or just my ideas and the way I want to attack it. Yeah, I’ve been fortunate to have good fun people around me and just happy to be open minded.”

Surfing with a weight

“Surfing is definitely relaxing and it’s a beautiful sport. It’s a lifestyle more than it probably is a sport, but it’s definitely not relaxing [while] competing and trying to be a professional surfer. On your weekends it is, but we go from 9-5 – go to work and get into it – scary waves, shallow reefs, big waves, trying to get trophies all these things. It’s not all roses, not that relaxing at times.”

The tour isn’t about being a tourist

“It’s a work in progress for me [taking in the sights and sites] because life moves so fast. I feel like it’s tough at times to process what you’re doing while you’re doing it. I’d say I don’t get enough time [for sightseeing] to be honest. I now have to pick and choose a lot of the great moments to take in and let go of a lot and just keep moving on. It’s just the most beautiful job in the world, and I would never complain.”

Values to value

“I’m a bubbly person, fun and light-hearted – well I try to be. I’m a real genuine person, I think honesty is key and I really like to be kind and respectful. I guess my No.1 thing is curiosity. I’m a real curious cat. I love to ask questions, I love to watch things, I think that’s one of my strengths.”

Role models

“It changes all the time. Like I said, I’m so curious in all different people. I think growing up my role models were my community – North Shelley Board Riders – and all the people around there. The surfers around there really shaped my surfing, then I was fortunate enough to have a good coach when I was younger, Glen Hall, he was really optimistic and positive about life. Now I’m watching sport it’s Jannik Sinner, Carlos Alcaraz. I grew up and my managers managed Ash Barty, so I got to see a bit of her journey. Then, of course, Steph Gilmore. I’m all over the shop with the role models piece.”

My go to saying

“It depends on what’s happening in the day, what’s happening in life. One that’s got me out of strife as lot this year is ‘control what you can control and go and accept the uncontrollables.’ It’s a journey to try and do that, but ultimately you can’t control everything, so put your focus and energy into what you can control. That’s the beauty of life – the uncontrollable. It’s funny because I’m a black and white kind of person, I love maths instead of English I don’t really like the grey area of an essay. I love maths has an answer and it’s black and white. Surfing’s challenged me, and I seriously think that’s what’s drawn me to surfing. It’s very different. It’s a very grey area, there’s no black and white. It’s up to your own  way, and will, how you want to surf a wave, your style. Yeah, it’s funny that I’m a surfer as I reckon it doesn’t add up to my personality. Like every athlete we’re drawn to a bit of a challenge and surfing has always challenged me.”

Olympian = Awesome

“It took me to go to the Olympics and feel and go through one whole cycle to actually realise what the Olympics means to me. I think as a surfer, our history is so strong for world titles and being a world champion, but now where surfing is heading, and actually going through an Olympic cycle, I think being an Olympic gold medallist would be the pinnacle as well. It just pulls you into a different realm of athletes, professional sport . . .  [the gold medal] is a huge, huge goal of mine.”

NSWIS – an athlete’s one stop shop

“We’re so fortunate here in Australia [because of] all the support we have from our governing body. Starting out at Surfing Australia, now being here in NSWIS . . .  it’s epic. It is  a full facility where we have a whole community and support under one roof: doctor, physio, strength and conditioning . . .  a one stop shop with everything we’re looking for as an athlete . . . you don’t want to be getting thrown around here, there, everywhere and I think it’s so helpful and productive ‘to be able to come in and talk to the physio, have them talk to my strength and conditioning. It’s just really an efficient way of being  an athlete and I think NSWIS is nailing that and I’m so grateful for their support.”

Daniel Lane, NSWIS